Purnululu National Park and The Bungle Bungles
After leaving Wolfe Creek we packed up and headed through to Purnululu National Park (and the Bungle Bungles). We only had 150 kms of the Tanami to go.
The Tanami Track on the NT side was in pretty good shape but it was a different story on the WA side and we were happy to find bitumen covering the last 30 kms or so.
When we hit the Great North Road we turned right and it wasn’t long until we entered Halls Creek. We needed petrol and so did the rest of the 30 or so holiday makers also lining up at the one fuel station in town that wasn’t ’out of order’ or required pre payment.
Halls Creek was packed with caravaners and other travellers either refuelling or stocking up at the local IGA. Patience was required.
Halls Creek is a fairly tidy town. One IGA, 2 variety shops and a bottle shop plus one very busy service station make up the Main Street. The IGA is really well stocked. Probably because the cost of one apple equals the total cost of my petrol bills for a month. I’m not sure how the locals can afford to shop there.
Out of the two variety shops one was encircled with a loud yellow banner that screamed 70% off selected items. I wondered if it was really necessary to discount items in a town that had only 4 shops. I would have thought they had a captive market.
Restocked and refuelled we headed north towards Purnululu. Before entering the park a big electronic board warns visitors that no 2 axle vehicles are allowed because the road is rough. Rough is an understatement. In a word, it was broken! It took us 2 hours to travel 53kms. Several creek crossings, a few washouts and lots of corrugations later we arrived at the campground. It’s a big campground in the shadow of the Bungle, Bungle Range with lots of sites. You choose your own spot. We found a suitable site snd set up. It was all very pleasant and after 6….very quiet!
Although we had people within 15m of us in all directions it seemed all the humans were reconnecting with their circadian rhythms and as soon as it went dark, which in northern WA in winter is around 5… everyone went to bed. It was the quietest campground we’d ever been in. Having spent many, many, many….. hours in the car together, the ‘mountain goat’ and I had run out of things to say, so instead of sitting in the dark looking at each other, we decided to join our fellow species and had an early night as well.
The next morning, bright and early, we set off to the southern end of the range to see the famous beehives. The road did not disappoint… it was still broken. We did a 10km hike where I fell in the water and learnt a few vital lessons. Lesson 1… yes that person staring back at me in the mirror is me….I’m getting older. Lesson 2….I have weak ankles, a nerve issue in my feet which swell when I walk and can be very painful. To be fair….I already knew that but somehow….because I’m old…..had forgotten. Lesson 3…… Don’t rush in and buy cheaper walking boots just before you leave for a trip and expect that wearing them once or twice before hand will suffice. It won’t!
Needless to say it was a fairly long walk as we needed to stop every 30 mins or so, so I could release my feet that were more tightly bound than a criminal lawyers contract. The mountain goat gained a few brownie points for his patience that day.
That aside…it was a lovely walk., the scenery unique. The highlight for the day was Cathedral Gorge and putting my crocs on at the end….ahhhh sweet relief.
The next day with feet sufficiently recovered we tackled the northern end of the ranges. We first walked Echidna Chasm. This awe inspiring walk was the best of all the walks. As you enter the chasm it envelopes you with steep, narrow orange, red sandstone cliff walls. Apparently the best time to visit is around noon when sunlight fills the chamber. We got there early and had the chamber to ourselves for a bit so were able to soak in the quiet, magnificence of the space. But as we exited, just before 11, we passed hordes of people, including some chatty and winey school kids ( it was school holidays) making their way to see the midday phenomenon. There’s not much room in the chamber. It’s tight, in some places required rock scrambling and it was a hot day. We wondered how enjoyable it would be to be packed tightly in this confined space with sweaty bodies and winey children. We chose a cup of tea and fruitcake in a shady, child free spot instead.
After aforementioned human refuelling we walked the mini palms walk. This walk required much more rock scrambling. Instead of falling in water on this walk I hit my head and sat there silently whimpering for a couple of minutes because now my head as well as my feet were sore. It was all very irritating. Despite my momentary misery this too was a good walk and well worth doing.
We certainly enjoyed our three nights at Purnululu. Tomorrow we would take two on the creek crossings and washouts as we exit the park before heading to our next stop…Mimbi Caves.
If this story has stirred your adventuring spirit, I’d love you to visit my art gallery page and explore the drawings these travels have inspired. www.catherinegordonart.com
*We travelled to Purnululu National Park in July 2025.
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